Blendtec Total Blender Teardown
ID: 1128
Description: We wanted to show off all the hard work the...
Steps:
- Our friends at Blendtec were awesome enough to lend us a blender for this teardown!
- $400 gets you:
- Their awesome "base" 1560W Total Blender (as if you can call anything with 1560 Watts "base")
- Instruction manual
- CD-ROM with product tour and video recipes
- Lifestyles Recipe Book, good for many blenderiffic creations
- Fully digital controls, along with an LCD display. None of that "push-button" stuff found on $30 blenders.
- But will it blend?
- We were so anxious to open up this puppy, we never found out. We'll take the word of thousands of satisfied customers, as well as Blendtec's hilarious videos.
- A mechanical switch on the back of the unit stops any bad ideas from turning into deadly ideas.
- You'll notice the absence of plastic. Other blenders use plastic shafts as a safety mechanism. If the blade gets stuck, the blade/motor connection will sever, as the plastic will either break or melt.
- The Total Blender has several electronic monitors that enable it to have a full metal shaft. That's how it transfers all that power to your ice cubes.
- The splined connection between the motor shaft and the blades is perfectly suited to transfer the astronomical torque of the motor to the edge of the rotor blades.
- The bottom of the blender. Best place to go if you need your serial number.
- Remove the two Phillips screws (deeply) recessed into the bottom housing.
- Four side tabs hold the plastic bottom housing in place. Opening the blender is as easy as one, two, three, four.
- The bottom housing is very ventilated -- essential for cooling the 1560W motor housed within.
- There's another thin plastic cover underneath the main cover. Nothing too exciting yet.
- The cover most likely directs air toward the vents in the bottom housing.
- Notice all the free space. This is the type of device mostly unaffected by the trend to shrink all components as much as possible.
- Now onto the fun stuff.
- Connectors abound!
- We begin by pulling out the power switch -- can't be too careful nowadays, especially with the recession and all...
- Another spade connector lies underneath. We pulled that one out too.
- Insert a spudger between the EMI power line filter and the case to separate the double sided tape. The unit comes right off after a couple of spudger twists.
- Onto the logic board, which may be the most important of all the internal goodies. It regulates all the aspects of operation and safety for the device.
- The logic board simply sits on brackets molded into the plastic housing. No screws!
- Disconnect a couple of spade connectors from it, and slide it out a bit to reach the control panel ribbon cable connector.
- Disconnect the control panel ribbon cable from the board. This should almost free the logic board from the rest of the blender.
- Two more connectors, and the logic board is free to roam about the country!
- Removing the speed sensor.
- Aptly named, the speed sensor monitors the speed of the spinning shaft. Should things get out of hand, the sensor will shut off the motor.
- The speed sensor uses inductive pickup to tell the control circuitry how fast the shaft is spinning. Inductive pickup is triggered by ferrous metal passing by in close proximity, causing a current to be induced in the pickup. This is really the same effect used by an electric guitar to pick up the string vibrations.
- Blendtec informed us that the Total Blender includes what they call a "hammer-fire" system. The main microprocessor will trigger this system if it detects that the blade stopped spinning. The processor will send a series of strong electric pulses with the intent to free the blades from the obstruction. If that fails, it will shut off the motor to prevent any damage.
- Remove two Phillips screws (of the four holding together the entire device) from the brush/slip ring housing.
- These puppies didn't come out without a fight.
- No wonder why -- they're over 3" long! Containing the inertia of the rotor spinning at 28,000 rpm is kind of important.
- Remove the single nut from the fan end of the shaft.
- A 3/8" Allen wrench conveniently fits into the splines at the other end of the shaft, making the nut removal a snap.
- After removing the nut, the fan simply lifts off the shaft.
- Use a flat blade screwdriver to 'walk' each of the two brass brush housings away from the motor shaft.
- After the brass brush housings are separated from their housing, the brush spade connectors simply slide out.
- Removing the brush/slip ring housing exposes the support ball bearings at the tail of the motor shaft.
- The brass brush housing is connected to the pure carbon brush with a braided copper wire.
- The carbon brushes normally wear out before the rest of the motor.
- Lifting the stator out of the Blendtec.
- The weld connecting the stack of metal plates creating the frame of the stator is just plain beautiful.
- Tracing the small black wire to the bottom of the stator and peeling back the tape reveals...
- A thermistor!
- The thermistor is used to monitor the temperature of the windings to avoid meltdown.
- We're told that the motor temperature has to reach a maximum of 130 degrees Celsius (266 degrees Fahrenheit) before being shut off!
- Just look at this rotor. If looks could kill, you just might get shot.
- This a podracer engine is, hmm? Yeesssssss.
- The two bearings are reported to be 608RS, which is a commonly available size. The upper bearing has a rubber sleeve over it in the photo.
- The logic board.
- First picture shows the shininess of the logic board. The board is clear-coated to prevent condensation from attacking the electronics.
- The hi-res version of the board shows all the intricate details -- inductive pickup/rotor sensor plugs, the thermistor plug, etc.
- The LCD panel is located on the back of the board, thus eliminating the need for any extra circuit boards.
- So ends the teardown of the Blendtec Total Blender. This is one of those devices that we are very leery about reassembling and using...
- 13 Amps, generating 28,000 RPM (that's a 270 MPH blade tip speed) on a slightly-unbalanced shaft just strikes us as a bad idea!
- The PS3 Slim works just fine after our teardown -- but it doesn't have razor-sharp blades.